When it comes
to trading or selling used firearms, condition is always a primary
consideration…and there are always two sides to the story.
The vendor usually wants as much money as possible, so their appraisal
of a firearm may tend towards the ‘better than it really is’
side of the equation.
Most buyers, on the other hand, will be trying to knock the price
down and look at the firearms in question with a slightly more critical,
perhaps even jaundiced eye.
There is nothing inherently dishonest in either approach. People
after all, are just people and some sort of compromise can usually
be brokered if both parties are serious about wanting to deal.
There is, however, considerable difference between trying to get
the best deal possible and deliberately misleading a buyer about
the real condition of the firearm being offered for sale. In a face-to-face
situation those differences are easily resolved. At a distance -
through the pages of the Shooters Gallery in Australian Shooter magazine
for instance - disputes over condition are more difficult to
settle. For that reason alone, it’s sometimes necessary to
re-establish the rules about just what condition descriptions actually
mean.
Like most influential organisations, SSAA long ago set definitions
for the description of firearms’ condition in fairly succinct
terms that applied across the whole range of firearms and accessories
advertised for sale. They’re as necessary and important today
as they ever were; perhaps even more so, given the various Permit
to Acquire systems that all firearms owners and users now have to
live with.
SSAA
definitions of condition
SSAA
Perfect
Firearms or accessories that are NEW in every aspect.
SSAA
Excellent
In as-new condition. Used rarely, with no signs of marring on either
wood or metal. The blued finish is perfect, except at the muzzle
or on sharp edges.
SSAA
Very Good
In perfect working condition, no appreciable wear on working surfaces,
no corrosion or pitting, only minor surface dents or scratches.
SSAA Good
Safe working condition, minor wear on working surfaces, no broken
parts, no corrosion or pitting that will interfere with proper functioning.
SSAA Fair
In safe working condition but well-worn, perhaps requiring replacement
of minor parts or adjustments (these should be indicated). There
should be no rust, but may have corrosion pits that do not render
the article unsafe or inoperable.
While the above
definitions are reasonably clear to most people, some will inevitably
find cause to differ for a variety of reasons. While condition
cannot be overlooked, other factors must also be considered.
Some firearms are more common than others, so rarity may be a factor
in determining price. This is particularly true with antique firearms.
Age alone is not a reason for inflated price.
A name is not enough to warrant a premium price. A worn-out firearm
with a good brand-name is still a worn-out firearm.
Originality is a primary consideration, unless a firearm is being
bought for a project or for parts.
Firearms that have been refurbished will generally sell for less
than those in original used condition - especially if the work has
been inexpertly done. Modifications do not necessarily add to the
value - regardless of how much they cost the owner.
If you’re considering buying a firearm through forums such
as the Shooters Gallery in Australian Shooter magazine, it
could pay to keep the above, as well as the following, in mind.
While the majority of vendors describe their goods on offer accurately,
there is always room for misinterpretation. Shop around to see what
the current market value for the item really is. If you have any
doubts, get a dealer to have a look at the goods for you. It might
cost you a few dollars to find out, but it could also save you money
and a lot of angst if the deal turns out to be a dud. Any firearm,
regardless of condition, is only worth as much as YOU are prepared
to pay for it.
Finally, remember that the ancient edict of caveat emptor (buyer
beware) should always be adhered to.
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